Timepieces Make Waves as Secondary Watch Market Hits Two-Year Peak
Timeless is back — and it’s beating hype. The Bloomberg Subdial Watch Index jumped 8% in 2025 to its highest level since Oct. 2023 as Gen Z collectors ditch chunky steel sports watches for sleek dress pieces, boosted by Taylor Swift and Timothée Chalamet. Cartier owner Richemont has already risen 42% this past year and stands to continue winning from this shift.
- Cartier’s share of Gen Z spending on Chrono24 surged from 2.1% in 2018 to 7.9% in 2025, while overall buyers rose from 3% to 5.6%.
- F.P. Journe dress watches ended 2025 selling for 120% above auction estimates (vs 6% in 2024), topped by Coppola’s prototype fetching $10.8M on a $1M+ estimate.
The wrist revolution: Traditional gender lines in watches are fading fast. Subdial co-founder Christy Davis says women are leaning into bigger statement pieces, while men are shifting toward smaller precious-metal styles. And after years of whiplash pricing, Davis notes buyers are getting disillusioned with Rolex-style sports models — a mindset change that’s now transforming the secondary market beyond oversized steel hype.
